Why is Everything Closed?

It's like fish swimming in water — they don't even notice it. Take them out, plop them into new waters, and it’s traumatic. That's exactly what happens when you’re transplanted into the rhythms of a new culture. After six years in Spain, I still don’t think I’ll ever fully get used to Spain’s daily tempo.

Darcie and Carly loving every minute of the Spanish traditions!

Schedules are invisible — until they aren't. In California, our days are stitched together by unconscious patterns: coffee, work, lunch, dinner. You don't question it — until you live somewhere else. Let me give you some examples, broken down for your reading (and my emotional) convenience.

Meal Times: A Tale of Two Worlds In California, breakfast is sacred: a sit-down meal before work at 7:00 or 8:00 a.m. — eggs, toast, bacon, pancakes, cereal, fruit, maybe a ham and cheese omelet if we’re feeling fancy. We love breakfast so much that some restaurants serve it all day, just in case an urgent pancake craving strikes at 3 p.m.

In Spain, breakfast is...coffee. Maybe toast with tomato if you’re feeling extravagant because they gulp it down on the way to work.

Because Americans had a real meal, we work steadily until noon, when it’s time for a quick lunch: sandwich, fruit, chips, a drink (never alcohol — that's for weekends or existential crises). Thirty minutes to an hour, and it’s back to business.

Meanwhile, Spaniards enjoy almuerzo around 10 or 11 a.m. — a leisurely, often hearty meal, frequently accompanied by a beer or a glass of wine.

 After lunch, Americans power through until 5:00 p.m., clock out, and settle down for dinner around 6:00 or 6:30. Comfort food, pajamas, Netflix — the usual evening ritual. Spain plays a different game. After almuerzo, Spaniards work until about 2:00 p.m., when — and I mean everything — shuts down. Shops, offices, bureaucratic buildings: all closed. Everyone heads home for la comida, a sit-down, multi-course meal that makes a brown-bag lunch look tragic.

Depending on the job, people won’t return until 4:00 or even 5:00 p.m. So, while Americans are winding down and wondering if it’s too late for a erran run at 5:30, Spain is just getting started on Round Two. Shops reopen in the late afternoon and stay open until 9:00 p.m. — right about the time Californians are in bed.

Since Spaniards have had their main meal mid-afternoon (plus a rest), they can work late. Naturally, dinner is pushed well into the night. Sitting down at 9:00 or 10:00 p.m. is normal. My American mind set still is somewhat shocked when I’m invited to dinner at 10:30 p.m. In Spain, that’s normal.

And, the grand mystery: Why is Everything Closed? Need to run an errand at 2:00 p.m.? Sorry — shutters are down. Hungry for dinner at 6:00? Restaurants are still recovering from lunch. Need groceries on a Sunday? Good luck.

At first, this drove me crazy. But slowly, Spain has taught me something different: with another culture comes another rhythm. I'm learning to enjoy the stillness in the middle of the day, to accept the gaps. And for that — even if I still can't find an open store when I need milk — I’ll forgive them.